2009 Durfort-Vivens, Armailhac, Gruaud

08/06/10

The professorial Gonzague Lurton's Durfort-Vivens made it into our selections for both must-buy on a tight budget and high quality-price ratio. Yesterday afternoon's release price reinforces those positions. Increasing vine age and big investments in the cellar have seen steady progress since Gonzague took over from his father Lucien Lurton in 1992. A high level of Cabernet in the blend - 75% this year - makes this wine less showy than many of its peers in its youth, but with age it develops beautifully. Relations with Parker appear to be thawing, but, for the time being, this Margaux remains the cheapest second growth by a country mile. The 2009 is the finest young Durfort-Vivens we've tasted, and this is highly recommended.

'Fine black red, beautifully expressed Margaux nose with fragrance and depth, a touch smoky and spicy, very good succulent fruit, lovely texture and depth, a charming, serious wine. Drink 2014-25. 17.5 points.' - Steven Spurrier, decanter.com

Yesterday's release of Clerc Milon (of which we still have a little available) is today followed by d'Armailhac, the second of Baroness Philippine de Rothschild's three classed growths. A very worthy fifth growth since the mid-seventies, the high quality takes a new turn with the 2009, perhaps BPR's best. We are still awaiting final figures, but are hopeful that we'll have enough stock to offer for general sale.

'This may be the finest d'Armailhac I have ever tasted. Made in a textured, full-bodied, sumptuous style, it is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and the balance primarily Cabernet Franc with a tiny dosage of Petit Verdot. It exhibits a deep ruby/purple hue along with floral, red and black currant, cedar, and spice characteristics. Deep, medium to full-bodied, and impressively pure as well as long, it should drink well for 25 years. 90-93 points*.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

Yesterday's big news was the release of Gruaud-Larose. For us, this was up there with the Leovilles, but all three of those look set to be far more expensive. Having offered it to those who bought last year, and those who wish listed it, we are down to our last case or two. Early this morning came Alter Ego. In 2009 like never before, the name says it all. This mini Palmer is selling strongly and, unless we manage to secure more stock, we are unlikely to have any for general sale.

View all 2009 Bordeaux en primeur