2009 Ducru, Pichon Lalande, Gaffeliere

23/06/10

I'd forgotten just how much we liked 2009 Ducru-Beaucaillou. Visiting straight after the classical elegance of Leoville-Las Cases, Bruno Borie's modern art collection is a bit of an assault on the senses. The same couldn't be said for the wine. For the first time, we debated whether it's a match for its illustrious neighbour. In the end, we agreed to disagree. Bruno is the perfectionist's perfectionist. Since 2006 the grand vin is made from only 35 hectares (previously it was 80) - the best, containing the oldest vines, closest to the river. When asked what vintage the 2009 most resembles, the answer is 2009 - there is nothing similar. Not even the '82, I enquire? No, it's denser than that, is the answer.

'Can the 2009 Ducru Beaucaillou be better than the brilliant 2000 and extraordinary 2003 and 2005? Purchasers will have to decide for themselves, but this compelling effort is one of the all-time great Ducru Beaucaillous. It is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot that achieved 13.5% natural alcohol, and, remarkably, despite the fact that 90% new oak was utilized, not a hint of wood can be found in either the aromatics or flavors. This inky/purple-hued, unctuously textured 2009 reveals layers and layers of blue, red, and black fruits, and hints of licorice and spice box. Despite its substantial, massive size, it retains an elegant style, but will need 3-5 years of cellaring. It should last for 40+ years. 96-98 points+.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

This morning we have Pichon Lalande. Sensibly, new owners the Rouzaud family have retained the services of Comte Gildas d'Ollone, the previous owner's nephew, but the pursuit of quality has been set about with renewed vigour and the 2009 is the best for almost a decade. We are still buying, and will contact last year's buyers and wish listers later today.

Over on the right bank, bad news courtesy of Gerard Perse. He has reduced the number of negociants for Pavie from 40 to 7, and it looks like we'll fail to secure even a single case. If spending that money's a problem then we can offer you Figeac, but a much better buy is another premier grand cru classe, La Gaffeliere, where we have an allocation for the first time:

'One of the old, historic vineyards in St.-Emilion, owned by a family that goes back to the 1400s, this wine has gone from strength to strength over the last decade. Cropped at 33 hectoliters per hectare in 2009, during a harvest that took place between September 29 and October 9, the final blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc will never produce a massive wine, but rather one of great elegance. The difference in 2009 is that this wine also has compelling intensity of fruit, and more opulence and viscosity than usual. At 13.5%, the alcohol is relatively modest compared to what many St.-Emilions achieved in this vintage. Dense purple, with terrific purity and a thickness without heaviness, black cherry, black currant, and super-concentrated cranberry and kirsch notes as well as hints of spring flowers and minerals are all present in this medium to full-bodied wine. It also possesses fabulous purity, texture, and transparency. Drink it over the next 30-35 years. (Tasted four times.) 94-96 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

And, from Leognan, while we await final numbers on Haut-Brion, we can offer its second wine, Clarence de Haut-Brion, another beauty from Domaine Clarence Dillon.

View all 2009 Bordeaux en primeur