2009 Lafon-Rochet, Clerc Milon

07/06/10

On Friday afternoon came the release of one of our favourite St-Estephes. Sister chateau of Pontet-Canet (Guy Tesseron actually bought it first, in 1960), Lafon-Rochet is enviably located, with Lafite on one side and Cos d'Estournel on another. Now managed by Michel Tesseron, together with his son Basile (pictured), recent developments include a new cellar finished in 2000, and smaller fermentation tanks so that the various parcels can more easily be vinified separately. As at Pontet-Canet, environmental concerns are paramount, and viticulture is lutte raisonnee. 2009 looks set to be the best ever.

'Perhaps the finest Lafon Rochet ever made, the purity, freshness, and sweet, rich, blueberry and boysenberry fruit and hint of pen ink that are found in this opaque purple-colored wine are impressive. Massive in the mouth, with freshness, delineation, and sweet tannin, it is a major sleeper of the vintage that should last for 25+ years. 91-93 points*.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

This morning, the first of Baroness Philippine de Rothschild's three properties. Clerc Milon was the last of the three classified growths acquired by Baron Philippe de Rothschild. The vineyards adjoin Lafite and Mouton, but were in poor condition and the last three decades have been ones of constant investment, renovation and development. More robust than d'Armailhac, its stablemate, it develops beautifully with age, and represents an affordable (and frequently overlooked) alternative to Mouton - indeed, even surpassing it in certain vintages.

'Delivers blackberry galore, with fabulous floral and currant undertones. Complex on the nose. Full-bodied, offering chewy tannins and lots of black licorice and currant character. Chewy, but reserved at the same time. A top Clerc. 93-96 points.' - James Suckling, winespectator.com

Also this morning, the Lurtons' excellent Haut-Bages Liberal, though priced a little higher than we'd like to qualify as a must-buy on a tight budget.

View all 2009 Bordeaux en primeur