2009 Burgundy en primeur: Nuits-St-Georges

14/01/11

Jean Chauvenet, Henri Gouges

Although it was his father-in-law, Jean Chauvenet, who expanded the domaine's vineyard holdings, it is Christophe Drag who has done most to increase the quality of the wines here since he took over in 1994. Then only 27, he began the major improvements in those vineyards, changing the training system, the pruning and the vineyard management to improve the balance and health of the vines. He doesn't like green harvesting, seeing it as a result of poor decision-making in the winter. As a result the wines are very complete, a long cold maceration pre-fermentation giving plenty of fruit without much extraction. Chauvenet is in the leading group of Nuits producers dragging (geddit?) the village out of mediocrity.

The top producer in Nuits-St-Georges, Domaine Henri Gouges is now led by Greg, a fine taster - not always the case among winemakers - and a fabulous winegrower. Vineyards here are in good shape as shown in 2009 with quantity and high quality. The cellar is in better shape than ever, now all gravity-fed, so no need for harsh pumping of juice and wine around the place. The aromatics of these wines blew me away: they are complex, perfumed, seem to capture every element of ripe Pinot Noir at its best. The tannins aren't too shabby either, with the elegance of a Parisienne in her good dress - silky, lean and poised. We finished the visit with a still energetic 1958 Les St-Georges. Nobody got within 20 years of it. So fresh, so alive. /CW

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Monday 17 January
Chablis

Thursday 27 January
Burgundy tasting 12-8pm, £25 per person inc VAT (redeemable against 2009 Burgundy en primeur purchases)

Offered subject to remaining unsold for shipment 2011/12