2009 Burgundy en primeur: Meursault and St-Aubin

20/01/11

Marc Colin, Antoine Jobard

Damien at Marc Colin was looking fairly relaxed despite making several adjustments to his normal regime for the 2009 harvest. First they brought it forward a week because of the end of August heatwave as they could see the acidity beginning to drop. Having said that, Damien has been studying the records and believes that, overall, St-Aubin has benefitted from climate change so far, perhaps more than Chassagne has. Both reds and whites were showing very well and a sneak peek at an 04 Le Montrachet at the end was infanticide, but superb.

The lad Antoine's in charge now at Jobard as his father is officially in retreat, as they delightfully say in France. Consistency is the name of the game here and although, as we know, Antoine has his wild side, it is not expressed in his meticulous winemaking. If the style has changed, then there is a touch more freshness, a slightly lighter hand on the tiller overall. These wines need age, but they do age. Jobard epitomises Meursault for me, the breadth, the richness, the opulence and the freshness, which Antoine is capturing by bottling several months earlier than his dad. /CW

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Tomorrow
Cote Chalonnaise

Thursday 27 January
Burgundy tasting 12-8pm, £25 per person inc VAT (redeemable against 2009 Burgundy en primeur purchases)

Offered subject to remaining unsold for shipment 2011/12