2009 Burgundy en primeur: Cote Chalonnaise

21/01/11

Dureuil-Janthial, Jacqueson, Lumpp, Raquillet

Arguably the new young master of Rully, Vincent Dureuil's self-confidence is amply backed up by the quality of his wines, which for years now have been Uncorked favourites, even if Jim does like his winemakers ever so slightly humbler. But the range of vineyards and the generous and crowd-pleasing nature of these serious wines continues to impress.

This domaine will shortly have to change its name as it is now Paul and Marie Jacqueson who are responsible for the deliciously zesty whites and juicy Pinots. Paul has supremacy in the vineyards while Marie, who is clearly not shy when it comes to viticulture, is a demon in the cellar and well knows, unlike Australian batsmen, when to leave well alone.

I like the Lumpps. Industrious, ambitious, painstaking and talented as they are, they're also intensely laid back. From their HQ next to the main road they make far from rustic wines in very rustic surroundings. I can think of a few Cote d'Or domaines that could be much improved if the Lumpps ran them...

Francois Raquillet is a rock in Mercurey. Physically imposing, cheerful, modest, he coaxes the best out of his vineyards. They are not - and never will be - Vosne-Romanee, but that isn't their job. What they are is equally terroir-obsessed and matter-filled wines - intriguing and extraordinary expressions of Chalonnaise Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. /CW

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Thursday 27 January
Burgundy tasting 12-8pm, £25 per person inc VAT (redeemable against 2009 Burgundy en primeur purchases)

Offered subject to remaining unsold for shipment 2011/12