2009 Burgundy en primeur: Chablis

17/01/11

Benoit Droin, Christian Moreau

Benoit Droin is sharp. He knows all the many vineyards where Droin have holdings inside out. He knows his workers from the permanent field staff to the most transient pickers. He knows how to get the energy-filled, vibrant, mineral best from his grapes, whichever part of the estate they come from. He doesn't care much about fashion, he does care about his wines, using proper amounts of sulphur as the domaine always has - Benoit wants to enjoy them at their peak and he wants us to as well. My case of 2002 village Chablis is just out of bond and drinking beautifully.

Chablis is one of the ultimate terroir wines and Domaine Christian Moreau is one of the finest exploiters of that terroir. Using rigorous pruning and only a little organic fertiliser to balance the stark chalk- and fossil-crammed hillsides that are their growing medium, 2009 is the second year of their change to natural fermentation, using only the vineyard's indigenous yeasts. Christian now spends much of his time as an ambassador for both the domaine and the region, Fabien has embraced the responsibility of pushing the domaine's wines nearer to perfection. /CW

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Tomorrow
Beaune, Pommard, Volnay

Thursday 27 January
Burgundy tasting 12-8pm, £25 per person inc VAT (redeemable against 2009 Burgundy en primeur purchases)

Offered subject to remaining unsold for shipment 2011/12