2009 Branaire, Malescot, Clos Marquis, Nenin

Patrick Maroteaux, Branaire-Ducru

17/06/10

A rumour in Bordeaux yesterday that Domaines Barons de Rothschild were about to release Carruades and Lafite set the cat among the pigeons. After Rauzan-Segla (now sold out) and Talbot (nearly sold out) came La Lagune (allocated to last year's buyers) and then Clos du Marquis and Nenin from Jean-Hubert Delon of Leoville-Las Cases, both of which impressed us hugely, and both must buys for a high quality-price ratio.

'Clos du Marquis is being positioned by Jean-Hubert Delon as a separate single vineyard wine rather than Leoville Las Cases' second wine. The logic is simple. It has come from the same vineyard for over twenty years, and is not a true second wine in the sense that it is not made from Las Cases' discarded cuvees. The 2009 Clos du Marquis (70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot) came in at 13.75% alcohol. It exhibits a deep ruby/purple hue along with sweet notes of creme de cassis, great purity, a full-bodied mouthfeel, and terrific texture as well as length. It should evolve for 20-25 years. 91-93 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

'A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc that achieved nearly 14% natural alcohol, the 2009 Nenin is the finest wine I have tasted since the estate was acquired by Jean-Hubert Delon. The full-bodied Nenin exhibits lots of cranberry and boysenberry fruit, a hefty, rich mouthfeel, and a fresh, lively, long, rich style. It can be drunk young or cellared for three decades. 91-93 points*.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

This morning, one of our favourites in St-Julien. A visit to Branaire-Ducru and meeting and tasting with owner Patrick Maroteaux provided an excellent opportunity to get better acquainted with the style at this superbly equipped chateau. This is St-Julien for Burgundy lovers, the emphasis on balance, elegance, finesse. It is a must buy for a high quality-price ratio. And two big hitters in Margaux. 2009 d`Issan, has a whopping 93-95 from Parker but we always prefer Malescot St-Exupery, which actually has a higher score from James Suckling than Chateau Margaux:

'This is absolutely fabulous. I love the complex aromas of ripe fruit and fresh flowers that turn to mineral and raspberry, along with tannins on the finish. This changes all the time. Full-bodied and dense, but so beautiful and long. The layers of ultrafine tannins just turn off the tip of your tongue. 97-100 points.' - James Suckling, winespectator.com

Of course, this morning's biggest news is Lynch-Bages but, along with Beychevelle, Canon-la-Gaffeliere, La Lagune, Petit Mouton and Troplong Mondot, we failed to secure any more stock than last year, and we are unlikely to have any for general sale once we've looked after last year's buyers.

View all 2009 Bordeaux en primeur