2007 vintage port

It`s an exciting thing, a vintage port declaration: a sort of quasi-imperial event over which time is taken and the proper niceties observed. It`s not something done lightly either. Maybe three vintages a decade the high wizards of the port trade reach a consensus that quality is superb and the time is ripe for a release. 2007 is such a year.

The build up to the growing season was excellent with a wet winter of 2006/07 replenishing aquifers almost exhausted after two preceding years of hard drought. Spring in the form of bud burst and then flowering was a couple of weeks earlier than the norm and happened during a cool, drizzly spell, which reduced yields. June and July were cooler and damper than usual, and August, which was also cool, was dry. Had it shared the rest of Europe`s rain, we would not have a vintage on our hands.

Picking began on the 14th September, with one thunderstorm on the 16th acting as a leaf and bunch cleaner, but otherwise September and October were superb, with warm and dry weather throughout, which completed ripening and provided perfect harvest conditions. The long, cool growing season has given us complex and fresh fruit with full phenolic ripeness that is very evident in the suave tannins I found throughout the tastings. The fruit arrived in almost perfect condition too, with hardly any sorting required - different from, say 2003, when a lot of raisins had to be discarded.

What is the style of the vintage? I would describe it as savoury and fresh and of all the vintages I have tasted, perhaps more like 1977 than anything else. Structurally very sound, it has all the components necessary for a long life but, as mentioned above, the considerable tannins are fine and knit. Everyone concurs that this vintage put on a spurt in cask in the second winter; a make or break period in the life of a vintage port. Above all, notwithstanding its potentially long life, this is going to be one hell of a drinkable vintage. You can keep it in the cellar for your grandchildren if you must, but after 10 years or so, this is going to be a most useful wine to have in reach of a dining table.

Some disregard port, saying it is an anachronistic wine, but they should taste more. It`s sweet fruit and firmness are a beguiling combination and make it perhaps the ultimate sharing wine. /CW

Halves and magnums £5 extra per 4.5 litre case
Also available in cases of 12x75cl

Offered subject to confirmation for shipment winter 2009/10

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